By Ashlei Jackson, Qlixite
The definition of “charity” is the practice of benevolent giving, giving without payment or expectation of a direct return. In light of the efforts being made all around the world to help the people of Haiti, the word charity is everywhere. We often find ourselves helpless or listing reasons why we have nothing to give. However, the act of giving to others is actually healthy for you and it is the one thing you can do that will always benefit you and the ones you love. Best of all you don’t need to put a monetary value to your charity. Small acts of giving go a long way. Since the definition said that we should “practice” charity...and we all resolved to get healthier in 2010...let’s start!
Cultivate Your Mind: You will need to set aside time for yourself on a regular basis. By taking time out of every day to focus on your own needs, you will be more prepared and able to give more to others. In order to continue learning and entertain your brain on a daily basis, you should make a list of all the things you would like learn more about. Sit down and list it all at once or gradually add to the lis throughout the year. Either way, you can continue checking off items on the list as you complete them and it will give you a sense of accomplishment. Ideas: Read one book a month. Schedule time for conversations with your spouse or friend on a current topics. Help your kids with their homework...even that subject you despise. Or better yet ask them about what they learned that day. You’ll connect and possibly learn something new.
Stretch Your Body: One of the best ways to spend the time you have set aside for yourself is to improve your physical health through exercise. You don’t need to do strenuous exercise every day, but you should stretch and get your heart rate moving. This will help reduce stress, keep your body in good shape and even help you sleep better at night. Ideas: Take a walk outside, the view is better than on the treadmill. Take a yoga or couples dance class. Stop at points during your day and just take 5-10 deep breaths. Use the stairs or park in the farthest point of the lot. The more you move, the better you’ll feel.
Give of Your Soul: The most rewarding way to work on your overall health and happiness is to do things that are good for your soul. These are the types of activities that require you set aside time to focus on and give to others - but remember; giving is healthy for you too. It helps you grow your relationships with others, feel fulfilled and show how much you care. One of the easiest ways to give to others is to spend time with them. It often doesn’t cost anything but it can be more rewarding and appreciated than anything you do. And the receivers can be anyone from your kids or parents to the homeless and needy. Ideas: Volunteer. This is a broad concept. Get involved with local organizations and share your ideas. You have skills that can help people around you. Organize a family reunion or special event that brings people together. Get involved with a Church or Spiritual group. Foster a pet. It doesn’t matter if you’re 5, 50 or 85 years old, you always have something to give. Let your mind wander on how you can help others and the opportunities will appear.
Expand your Heart: Mother Theresa is quoted saying “We cannot do great things on this Earth, only small things with great love.” We’re always too busy or too broke to do things on a grand scale so keep it small. Expand the amount of love you have for the people in your life and your problems will seem smaller and less tragic. Ideas: Write a small note to each of the people you work with telling them how much you appreciate them. Look people in the eye and thank them. Smiles are contagious (apparently so are butterfly stickers in this town) so spread them. Valentines Day is coming so follow the youth example and buy a silly box of valentines for everyone you know.
There is a reason the definition of charity is the “practice” of giving versus the “act” of giving. It was Aristotle who said, “We are what we repeatedly do, excellence, then, is not an act but a habit.”
Wednesday, September 14, 2011
Is Juice a Problem for Children's teeth?
By Dr. Scott Thompson, DDS - Winning With Smiles
For over 2 generations now juice has been espoused as a health food. Though dentists have been aware for decades this is not really true, it has not been until very recently that the health industry and the medical establishment has taken a closer look at juice. It is definitely not a health food. The question arises if it is even healthy!
Juice now sits on the top of the list as a probable causative agent for the medical chronic disease pandemic facing our children; namely diabetes, obesity, high blood pressure, and osteoporosis, among others. The journals of the American Medical Association and the American Academy of Pediatrics have in recent years recommended that juice be avoided in an infant’s diet. They also recommend that if it is introduced to a toddler that it be limited to 6 oz. daily (a small glass) and consumed with a meal.
Juice is at the top of the list of causative agents for dental disease for our children and youth. For that matter, in today’s culture it probably is equally at cause for adult dental decay.
Juice is worse than soda! That doesn’t mean soda is good; it is also terrible for teeth and health. But, juice is worse. If you look at nutrition data for foods and compare juice with whole fruit, you quickly see what is lost when juice is squeezed from fruit. A couple highlights:
You do get water and calories; i.e., an 8 oz glass of orange juice has the calories squeezed from about 5 oranges. Who ever heard of eating 5 oranges in one sitting? And today we often do this at breakfast and again in the afternoon. Yikes… all those empty calories!
Lost with the fruit when we make juice is a) nearly all the vitamins except some of the water soluble vitamin C, b) insoluble fiber, roughage, c) soluble fiber, unique to fruit and an important aid in digestion, d) and minerals, key components to our enzyme systems that process our body functions. Without the minerals the enzymes cannot use the calories we consume so the calories get stored as fat.
Rarely mentioned about juice is the acid. Acid that will dissolve your teeth. Those of us that took analytical and organic chemistry in college know the issue here. Though organic acids are often called “weak” acids, they are far more effective in organic systems like mouths because of their sustaining power. They don’t register in the pH scale as strong (lower number) as inorganic acids because they hold their acid potential in “reserve.” As the acid is used (dissolving calcium out of teeth) the reserve releases more acid out of solution. This is part of the steady state (homeostasis) systems that sustain organic (life supporting) systems. When misused (juice rather than fruit) the power released can be devastating. It turns out the acid potential (titrateable acid) of juice is nearly twice that of colas!
So put juice at the very top of the destructive beverage list that includes: juice, sports drinks like Gatorade, sodas, juicers and sweet energy teas.
Juice now sits on the top of the list as a probable causative agent for the medical chronic disease pandemic facing our children; namely diabetes, obesity, high blood pressure, and osteoporosis, among others. The journals of the American Medical Association and the American Academy of Pediatrics have in recent years recommended that juice be avoided in an infant’s diet. They also recommend that if it is introduced to a toddler that it be limited to 6 oz. daily (a small glass) and consumed with a meal.
Juice is at the top of the list of causative agents for dental disease for our children and youth. For that matter, in today’s culture it probably is equally at cause for adult dental decay.
Juice is worse than soda! That doesn’t mean soda is good; it is also terrible for teeth and health. But, juice is worse. If you look at nutrition data for foods and compare juice with whole fruit, you quickly see what is lost when juice is squeezed from fruit. A couple highlights:
You do get water and calories; i.e., an 8 oz glass of orange juice has the calories squeezed from about 5 oranges. Who ever heard of eating 5 oranges in one sitting? And today we often do this at breakfast and again in the afternoon. Yikes… all those empty calories!
Lost with the fruit when we make juice is a) nearly all the vitamins except some of the water soluble vitamin C, b) insoluble fiber, roughage, c) soluble fiber, unique to fruit and an important aid in digestion, d) and minerals, key components to our enzyme systems that process our body functions. Without the minerals the enzymes cannot use the calories we consume so the calories get stored as fat.
Rarely mentioned about juice is the acid. Acid that will dissolve your teeth. Those of us that took analytical and organic chemistry in college know the issue here. Though organic acids are often called “weak” acids, they are far more effective in organic systems like mouths because of their sustaining power. They don’t register in the pH scale as strong (lower number) as inorganic acids because they hold their acid potential in “reserve.” As the acid is used (dissolving calcium out of teeth) the reserve releases more acid out of solution. This is part of the steady state (homeostasis) systems that sustain organic (life supporting) systems. When misused (juice rather than fruit) the power released can be devastating. It turns out the acid potential (titrateable acid) of juice is nearly twice that of colas!
So put juice at the very top of the destructive beverage list that includes: juice, sports drinks like Gatorade, sodas, juicers and sweet energy teas.
How to Buy Original Artwork
Articlebase.com
Okay, so you want to buy original art, but you scared that you will end up spending a fortune on something that is essentially worthless junk. It is possible that you could become a victim of a fraud if you do not have some knowledge about Art and do not how to tell an original piece of art from a fake. You need to invest some time in order to learn some useful tips that will help you avoid these situations.
So is most of the word. But the only way to succeed in the art business is to research and take a chance. Learning the art terms, being able to depict original art from reproduced prints, and getting the best deals is an art itself, and like anything else, you have to acquire the abilities to succeed—all of which can be learned.
Pointing out an original art piece among hundreds of reprints is like, well, for lack of a better term, picking a needle from a haystack. To successfully buy art, one must learn to do this, no matter how tedious and scary it seems. One way to do this is research. And research. And research some more. And then all over again until you think you have found some reliable resources that precisely tell you (not in the fine text) what art is original, and which is not.
Once you are more confident that you've found truthful sources, it is then time to decide on your taste preference, and what style/type/medium of art you would like to collect. Oh, and here's that word again: research. A buyer needs to know all the spiffy words and phrases related to art so that when searching for those perfect pieces, you know what to ask for (and keep yourself from seeming like a novice). Also, consider the price range you would like to stay in, that way you can keep yourself from ‘breaking the bank' or splurging on something when you do not have to.
Okay, after some more research (No, I'm not kidding), the buyer can make a selection on what art he/she wishes to buy. The tools to being successful once finding reliable vendors are: Checking for quality, a COA (certificate of authenticity), and bargaining. Like when shopping for cars, you always bargain with the salesman, right? Why not for art? You do want to get the best price possible. Maybe you could even take the route of having the piece appraised to make sure you're not paying double. And then more research, just to make sure the piece of art you select it truly an original art piece.
Finally, conclude the purchase! All original art fluctuates in price over time, and the buyer should keep up-to date on this, and not accidentally sell the piece for lower than you should (if you eventually want to sell it).
So take these skills, never forget them, and then research some more, and you can make the art of buying art an extremely enjoyable hobby.
Okay, so you want to buy original art, but you scared that you will end up spending a fortune on something that is essentially worthless junk. It is possible that you could become a victim of a fraud if you do not have some knowledge about Art and do not how to tell an original piece of art from a fake. You need to invest some time in order to learn some useful tips that will help you avoid these situations.
So is most of the word. But the only way to succeed in the art business is to research and take a chance. Learning the art terms, being able to depict original art from reproduced prints, and getting the best deals is an art itself, and like anything else, you have to acquire the abilities to succeed—all of which can be learned.
Pointing out an original art piece among hundreds of reprints is like, well, for lack of a better term, picking a needle from a haystack. To successfully buy art, one must learn to do this, no matter how tedious and scary it seems. One way to do this is research. And research. And research some more. And then all over again until you think you have found some reliable resources that precisely tell you (not in the fine text) what art is original, and which is not.
Once you are more confident that you've found truthful sources, it is then time to decide on your taste preference, and what style/type/medium of art you would like to collect. Oh, and here's that word again: research. A buyer needs to know all the spiffy words and phrases related to art so that when searching for those perfect pieces, you know what to ask for (and keep yourself from seeming like a novice). Also, consider the price range you would like to stay in, that way you can keep yourself from ‘breaking the bank' or splurging on something when you do not have to.
Okay, after some more research (No, I'm not kidding), the buyer can make a selection on what art he/she wishes to buy. The tools to being successful once finding reliable vendors are: Checking for quality, a COA (certificate of authenticity), and bargaining. Like when shopping for cars, you always bargain with the salesman, right? Why not for art? You do want to get the best price possible. Maybe you could even take the route of having the piece appraised to make sure you're not paying double. And then more research, just to make sure the piece of art you select it truly an original art piece.
Finally, conclude the purchase! All original art fluctuates in price over time, and the buyer should keep up-to date on this, and not accidentally sell the piece for lower than you should (if you eventually want to sell it).
So take these skills, never forget them, and then research some more, and you can make the art of buying art an extremely enjoyable hobby.
How to Find a Good Dog Breeder
From HumaneSociety.com
So, you've decided to get a dog. You're prepared to feed, exercise, train, clean up after, work through problems with, and love a dog every day for the next 10 to 20 years.
You've evaluated your lifestyle and know exactly what sort of dog you're looking for (e.g., a high energy dog to go running with, or a more sedate dog to lounge on the couch with), and you know that you need to seek out your desired characteristics in an individual dog, not a breed, because a breed is no guarantee of temperament or likes and dislikes.
Start at a shelter or rescue group
One in every four dogs in animal shelters in the United States is a purebred, and mixed breed dogs also make great pets, so start your search there. Not only are you likely to find a great dog, you'll also feel great about helping a homeless dog find a loving home. Most dogs lose their homes because of "people" reasons, such as cost, lack of time, lifestyle changes (new baby, divorce, moving, or marriage), or allergies, and not because of something the dog has done.
Say you've checked out the purebred rescue group for your breed, but still haven't found "The One." You don't want to buy a puppy from a pet store because you know that most of those puppies come from mass breeding facilities—better known as puppy mills.
In the end, if you've decided to buy a dog from a breeder, you'll want to support one who has their dogs' best interests at heart.
How to ID a reputable breeder
Good breeders don't sell their puppies to the first person who shows up with cash in hand. Too often, unsuspecting people buy puppies from puppy mills, or sometimes neighbors who breed their dog to make a little money or simply because they have a dog "with papers". Too often, the result is puppies in poor health or with temperament problems that may not be discovered right away.
A dog who has genetic health problems due to poor breeding practices or who develops significant behavior problems due to a lack of early socialization can cost thousands of dollars to treat—and result in grief and heartache as well.
Avoid the pitfalls
Download our "How to Identify a Good Dog Breeder" [PDF] checklist and take it with you as you visit different breeders. If the breeder you're working with doesn't meet all of the minimum criteria listed, The Humane Society of the United States advises you to walk away. Remember, your dog will likely live 10 to 20 years, so it's well worth investing some time now to be sure you're working with a reputable breeder who breeds healthy, happy dogs and keeps them in clean and humane conditions.
Get a referral
You can find reputable breeders by asking for referrals from your veterinarian or trusted friends, by contacting local breed clubs, or visiting professional dog shows. Remember, a reputable breeder will never sell her dogs through a pet store or in any other way that does not allow her to thoroughly meet with and interview you to ensure that the puppy is a good match for your family and that you will provide a responsible lifelong home.
Always visit where they were born and raised
Always personally visit a breeder's facility before buying a puppy. Find out where your puppy was born and raised. Take the time now to find the right breeder and you'll thank yourself for the rest of your dog's life.
So, you've decided to get a dog. You're prepared to feed, exercise, train, clean up after, work through problems with, and love a dog every day for the next 10 to 20 years.
You've evaluated your lifestyle and know exactly what sort of dog you're looking for (e.g., a high energy dog to go running with, or a more sedate dog to lounge on the couch with), and you know that you need to seek out your desired characteristics in an individual dog, not a breed, because a breed is no guarantee of temperament or likes and dislikes.
Start at a shelter or rescue group
One in every four dogs in animal shelters in the United States is a purebred, and mixed breed dogs also make great pets, so start your search there. Not only are you likely to find a great dog, you'll also feel great about helping a homeless dog find a loving home. Most dogs lose their homes because of "people" reasons, such as cost, lack of time, lifestyle changes (new baby, divorce, moving, or marriage), or allergies, and not because of something the dog has done.
Say you've checked out the purebred rescue group for your breed, but still haven't found "The One." You don't want to buy a puppy from a pet store because you know that most of those puppies come from mass breeding facilities—better known as puppy mills.
In the end, if you've decided to buy a dog from a breeder, you'll want to support one who has their dogs' best interests at heart.
How to ID a reputable breeder
Good breeders don't sell their puppies to the first person who shows up with cash in hand. Too often, unsuspecting people buy puppies from puppy mills, or sometimes neighbors who breed their dog to make a little money or simply because they have a dog "with papers". Too often, the result is puppies in poor health or with temperament problems that may not be discovered right away.
A dog who has genetic health problems due to poor breeding practices or who develops significant behavior problems due to a lack of early socialization can cost thousands of dollars to treat—and result in grief and heartache as well.
Avoid the pitfalls
Download our "How to Identify a Good Dog Breeder" [PDF] checklist and take it with you as you visit different breeders. If the breeder you're working with doesn't meet all of the minimum criteria listed, The Humane Society of the United States advises you to walk away. Remember, your dog will likely live 10 to 20 years, so it's well worth investing some time now to be sure you're working with a reputable breeder who breeds healthy, happy dogs and keeps them in clean and humane conditions.
Get a referral
You can find reputable breeders by asking for referrals from your veterinarian or trusted friends, by contacting local breed clubs, or visiting professional dog shows. Remember, a reputable breeder will never sell her dogs through a pet store or in any other way that does not allow her to thoroughly meet with and interview you to ensure that the puppy is a good match for your family and that you will provide a responsible lifelong home.
Always visit where they were born and raised
Always personally visit a breeder's facility before buying a puppy. Find out where your puppy was born and raised. Take the time now to find the right breeder and you'll thank yourself for the rest of your dog's life.
Dog Training: Sit Stay Exercise is Key
From Petplace.com
There is no single exercise more effective at gaining leadership than the sit-stay exercise. If you must constantly coax, cajole, and ultimately bribe your dog to obey the simplest command, you're lacking in leadership. The sit-stay command, properly taught, can single-handedly reverse this unfortunate situation.
Think about why the sit-stay exercise might earn owner-leadership with a dog. If you can convince your dog to stay in a seated position, against his own wishes, regardless of what is going on around him, and you can persuade him to do this without the use of pain, fear or force, what does that make you? The Alpha Dog, of course, the one who is strong of mind. The sit-stay exercise will crown you as the pack leader.
The sit-stay exercise makes specific use of language signals your dog is pre-programmed to interpret and understand. They are language tools used by the wolves and maternal domestic dogs, so your dog already knows them. From your dog's point of view, how much easier could it be?
From the human point of view, however, teaching the Sit-Stay may not be easy to begin with. Through learned behavior, adult humans are programmed to use nagging and force to get their way with dogs. We inanely repeat our words, push, prod, pry, pinch, choke and assault dogs to wring from them what we consider "obedient" behavior.
Wolves and dogs, however, are not capable of these physical manipulations; training tactics of pain, fear and force are not part of their repertoire when education is at hand. Canines must rely on encouragement, passive restraint, and passive intimidation to accomplish the education of their young. This is the basis of harness training.
Dogs talk to us in ways we must learn to recognize. A dog can easily put his rear to the ground and get a treat, or put his chest on the carpet to get a snack. He will do this whether you have leadership or not, simply because his actions serve to obtain one or more of his primary resources, in this case food. But for a dog to stay seated voluntarily at his owner's request with no goal objectives – food or touching – means that he acknowledges your position as his leader. By way of his behavior, your dog is saying to you, "I acknowledge and I accept your leadership at this moment. I see that you are my mentor, and I prove this with my willing cooperation," just as he would signal to a higher-ranking dog or wolf. For an owner to achieve this kind of leadership through one exercise alone is both appealing and astonishing. You earn your dog's respect. In turn, earning your dog's respect will cause most minor behavior problems to dissipate.
Keep in mind that stay is an abstract concept for a dog to learn and understand. Sit means put your rear to the ground; down means put your rear end and your chest to the ground; come means run to your owner; but stay ...? Technically, stay means nothing to a dog. There is no motor response to your request that he can act upon - it is essentially the absence of a motor response. When your dog at last figures it out, his self-confidence blossoms. Increased self-confidence in dogs resolves a myriad of behavior problems.
In teaching sit-stay on a harness, in fact in all obedience training with a harness, patience is the key to success. Patience is a virtue and wolves have an endless supply. Look how well their social system works. Their limitless patience is the reason. So learn patience, don't do anything you are not instructed to do, watch your dog learn to sit-stay in less than 10 minutes, and watch behavior problems disappear.
Editors note:
To teach Sit-Stay using a harness, simply apply upward traction to the lead attached to the harness. The harness will "tent" over the dog's shoulders. The dog will be amply aware of even gentle traction applied to its harness and will probably begin to look around anxiously, wondering what comes next. It may yawn (stress), it may lick its lips, thinking about submission, it may try to appear indifferent and try engaging in some displacement activity. You do nothing but wait. You certainly don't talk to your dog, look at it, or pet it at this stage. Basically, nothing happens. Eventually the dog gets fed up with standing there, unable to proceed, and it sits or lies down. Sitting is what you want so the tension would be released and the dog would be praised and petted. Lying down is not what you want, so the tension on the lead would remain. As the dog sits make a circular sweeping movement with your hand (a signal for stay). While the dog remains sitting, you keep bantering cheerfully to it and perhaps petting it. You could even give it a chest rub (massage). If he stands up again before being given a release signal, the tension is reapplied to the lead, and you become silent and aloof. This is repeated until the dog learns that sitting – and staying – is what you want. There is no way out for the dog. You mean business. But note, there was no yelling, no hitting, no forcing, no bullying – just time passing an patience – the essential ingredients of proper, non-intimidating training.
There is no single exercise more effective at gaining leadership than the sit-stay exercise. If you must constantly coax, cajole, and ultimately bribe your dog to obey the simplest command, you're lacking in leadership. The sit-stay command, properly taught, can single-handedly reverse this unfortunate situation.
Think about why the sit-stay exercise might earn owner-leadership with a dog. If you can convince your dog to stay in a seated position, against his own wishes, regardless of what is going on around him, and you can persuade him to do this without the use of pain, fear or force, what does that make you? The Alpha Dog, of course, the one who is strong of mind. The sit-stay exercise will crown you as the pack leader.
The sit-stay exercise makes specific use of language signals your dog is pre-programmed to interpret and understand. They are language tools used by the wolves and maternal domestic dogs, so your dog already knows them. From your dog's point of view, how much easier could it be?
From the human point of view, however, teaching the Sit-Stay may not be easy to begin with. Through learned behavior, adult humans are programmed to use nagging and force to get their way with dogs. We inanely repeat our words, push, prod, pry, pinch, choke and assault dogs to wring from them what we consider "obedient" behavior.
Wolves and dogs, however, are not capable of these physical manipulations; training tactics of pain, fear and force are not part of their repertoire when education is at hand. Canines must rely on encouragement, passive restraint, and passive intimidation to accomplish the education of their young. This is the basis of harness training.
Dogs talk to us in ways we must learn to recognize. A dog can easily put his rear to the ground and get a treat, or put his chest on the carpet to get a snack. He will do this whether you have leadership or not, simply because his actions serve to obtain one or more of his primary resources, in this case food. But for a dog to stay seated voluntarily at his owner's request with no goal objectives – food or touching – means that he acknowledges your position as his leader. By way of his behavior, your dog is saying to you, "I acknowledge and I accept your leadership at this moment. I see that you are my mentor, and I prove this with my willing cooperation," just as he would signal to a higher-ranking dog or wolf. For an owner to achieve this kind of leadership through one exercise alone is both appealing and astonishing. You earn your dog's respect. In turn, earning your dog's respect will cause most minor behavior problems to dissipate.
Keep in mind that stay is an abstract concept for a dog to learn and understand. Sit means put your rear to the ground; down means put your rear end and your chest to the ground; come means run to your owner; but stay ...? Technically, stay means nothing to a dog. There is no motor response to your request that he can act upon - it is essentially the absence of a motor response. When your dog at last figures it out, his self-confidence blossoms. Increased self-confidence in dogs resolves a myriad of behavior problems.
In teaching sit-stay on a harness, in fact in all obedience training with a harness, patience is the key to success. Patience is a virtue and wolves have an endless supply. Look how well their social system works. Their limitless patience is the reason. So learn patience, don't do anything you are not instructed to do, watch your dog learn to sit-stay in less than 10 minutes, and watch behavior problems disappear.
Editors note:
To teach Sit-Stay using a harness, simply apply upward traction to the lead attached to the harness. The harness will "tent" over the dog's shoulders. The dog will be amply aware of even gentle traction applied to its harness and will probably begin to look around anxiously, wondering what comes next. It may yawn (stress), it may lick its lips, thinking about submission, it may try to appear indifferent and try engaging in some displacement activity. You do nothing but wait. You certainly don't talk to your dog, look at it, or pet it at this stage. Basically, nothing happens. Eventually the dog gets fed up with standing there, unable to proceed, and it sits or lies down. Sitting is what you want so the tension would be released and the dog would be praised and petted. Lying down is not what you want, so the tension on the lead would remain. As the dog sits make a circular sweeping movement with your hand (a signal for stay). While the dog remains sitting, you keep bantering cheerfully to it and perhaps petting it. You could even give it a chest rub (massage). If he stands up again before being given a release signal, the tension is reapplied to the lead, and you become silent and aloof. This is repeated until the dog learns that sitting – and staying – is what you want. There is no way out for the dog. You mean business. But note, there was no yelling, no hitting, no forcing, no bullying – just time passing an patience – the essential ingredients of proper, non-intimidating training.
Thursday, September 1, 2011
Financial Sense: 10 Credit Card Myths
By Toni F. Ryan, First Priority Financial
The best defense against making a credit blunder is to better educate yourself.
Myth #1: Avoid Using Credit Cards FALSE!
This may be a good way to get rid of debt, but it's utter destruction to your credit score. Why? Because of the 5 factors that make up your credit score, one is how you use and manage your credit, a factor that makes up 30% of your score. That's 255 points! Use the cards every month for gas, groceries etc. but pay them off.
Myth #2: Consolidate Debt onto 1, Low-Interest Credit Card FALSE!
Everyone gets the tempting credit offers to consolidate your debt onto one credit card but when you max out that card, your credit score will drop 60-100 points overnight! Do not consolidate your credit card debt UNLESS, the balance will be under 30% of the available limit.
Myth #3: It's Okay If You Go Over Your Credit Card Limit Because The Bank Authorized the Purchase FALSE!
Going over limit, even if it's just by one dollar deals you a double penalty a 50 point lower score and usually a $39.00 fee.
Myth #4: Closing Credit Card Accounts Will Help Your Score FALSE!
Don't close credit card accounts at all, with the exception of closing a joint account after a divorce. You will lose points in two areas: in the Amounts Owed Area which is worth 30% of your credit score, and in the Length of Credit History Area which is worth 15% of your credit score.
Myth #5: Becoming an Authorized User on Someone's Credit Card Makes You Legally Responsible for the Account FALSE!
While the activity on these accounts, good or bad will show up on your credit report if you are an authorized user, but you are NOT legally responsible for terms of the agreement.
Myth #6: The Type of Credit Card Doesn't Matter FALSE!
The credit scoring system does not like third-party finance cards (e.g., department store cards, furniture store cards, etc.) Always try to stick with major credit cards (e.g., Visa®, MasterCard®, etc.)
Myth #7: Your Divorce Decree Protects Your Credit Score FALSE!
Even if your divorce decree stipulates that your ex-spouse is financially responsible for debt that is held in both of your names, you remain financially liable for that debt until it is paid in full.
Myth #8: Marrying Someone Who Has Poor Credit Will Hurt Your Credit Score FALSE!
Although getting married generally means that you'll be combining finances, your credit reports won't be combined
Myth #9: Making Arrangements to Pay a Charged-Off Credit Card Account Will Help Improve Your Score FALSE!
If you have an old charged off credit card debt and you make payment on it, or make a written or oral promise to pay it, you will renew the 7 year credit reporting statute from that date. The best path to take in this instance is to debt negotiate. Offer the creditor .30 - .40 cents on the dollar as payment in full in exchange for a deletion letter from the creditor.
Myth #10: Those Pre-Approved Credit Card Offers Do Not Hurt Your Score FALSE!
Just because credit is offered to you, does not mean that you should accept it. Your credit report has not been pulled yet, so you are NOT approved for the account but once you call and your credit is pulled, your score will lower 10% due to the inquiry.
The bottom line about misinformation? It's always going to be out there, with tempting offers but remember - if something seems too good to be true, it probably is.
The best defense against making a credit blunder is to better educate yourself.
Myth #1: Avoid Using Credit Cards FALSE!
This may be a good way to get rid of debt, but it's utter destruction to your credit score. Why? Because of the 5 factors that make up your credit score, one is how you use and manage your credit, a factor that makes up 30% of your score. That's 255 points! Use the cards every month for gas, groceries etc. but pay them off.
Myth #2: Consolidate Debt onto 1, Low-Interest Credit Card FALSE!
Everyone gets the tempting credit offers to consolidate your debt onto one credit card but when you max out that card, your credit score will drop 60-100 points overnight! Do not consolidate your credit card debt UNLESS, the balance will be under 30% of the available limit.
Myth #3: It's Okay If You Go Over Your Credit Card Limit Because The Bank Authorized the Purchase FALSE!
Going over limit, even if it's just by one dollar deals you a double penalty a 50 point lower score and usually a $39.00 fee.
Myth #4: Closing Credit Card Accounts Will Help Your Score FALSE!
Don't close credit card accounts at all, with the exception of closing a joint account after a divorce. You will lose points in two areas: in the Amounts Owed Area which is worth 30% of your credit score, and in the Length of Credit History Area which is worth 15% of your credit score.
Myth #5: Becoming an Authorized User on Someone's Credit Card Makes You Legally Responsible for the Account FALSE!
While the activity on these accounts, good or bad will show up on your credit report if you are an authorized user, but you are NOT legally responsible for terms of the agreement.
Myth #6: The Type of Credit Card Doesn't Matter FALSE!
The credit scoring system does not like third-party finance cards (e.g., department store cards, furniture store cards, etc.) Always try to stick with major credit cards (e.g., Visa®, MasterCard®, etc.)
Myth #7: Your Divorce Decree Protects Your Credit Score FALSE!
Even if your divorce decree stipulates that your ex-spouse is financially responsible for debt that is held in both of your names, you remain financially liable for that debt until it is paid in full.
Myth #8: Marrying Someone Who Has Poor Credit Will Hurt Your Credit Score FALSE!
Although getting married generally means that you'll be combining finances, your credit reports won't be combined
Myth #9: Making Arrangements to Pay a Charged-Off Credit Card Account Will Help Improve Your Score FALSE!
If you have an old charged off credit card debt and you make payment on it, or make a written or oral promise to pay it, you will renew the 7 year credit reporting statute from that date. The best path to take in this instance is to debt negotiate. Offer the creditor .30 - .40 cents on the dollar as payment in full in exchange for a deletion letter from the creditor.
Myth #10: Those Pre-Approved Credit Card Offers Do Not Hurt Your Score FALSE!
Just because credit is offered to you, does not mean that you should accept it. Your credit report has not been pulled yet, so you are NOT approved for the account but once you call and your credit is pulled, your score will lower 10% due to the inquiry.
The bottom line about misinformation? It's always going to be out there, with tempting offers but remember - if something seems too good to be true, it probably is.
What to Do When An Accident Occurs
By Lloyd Lawson, Farmers Insurance
Automobile accidents happen that's a fact of life but being prepared makes everything easier. Here are eight important steps to follow:
•Step 1 - (at the accident scene): Call 911 if someone has a life-threatening injury.
•Step 2 - Exchange license plate numbers, contact information and auto insuranceinformation with the other parties involved. MAKE SURE TO GET PHONE NUMBERS
•Step 3 - Warn other drivers to prevent further damage.
•Turn on hazard lights. Set flares.
•Step 4 - Notify the police. You need a police report.
•Step 5 - Gather the facts. : Look for witnesses note the time and scene details.
•Step 6 - Don't admit responsibility. Investigation may show that you are not responsible.
•Step 7 - Report to the proper authorities. If you are involved in a vehicle accident that occurred in California, you must report it to DMV if: There was property damage of more than $750 or anyone was injured (no matter how minor)Each driver must make a report to DMV within 10 days, whether you caused the accident or not and even if the accident occurred on private roperty.
•Step 8 - Report claims immediately. Contact your insurance company as soon as possible. Many have 24-hour claim-filing service by phone. Your insurance ID card should provide the number. Whoever takes your claim will walk you through the process.
Download & Print PDF Accident Record Keeper for Your Glove Box 5.5" x 8.5" Be safe and be smart.
Automobile accidents happen that's a fact of life but being prepared makes everything easier. Here are eight important steps to follow:
•Step 1 - (at the accident scene): Call 911 if someone has a life-threatening injury.
•Step 2 - Exchange license plate numbers, contact information and auto insuranceinformation with the other parties involved. MAKE SURE TO GET PHONE NUMBERS
•Step 3 - Warn other drivers to prevent further damage.
•Turn on hazard lights. Set flares.
•Step 4 - Notify the police. You need a police report.
•Step 5 - Gather the facts. : Look for witnesses note the time and scene details.
•Step 6 - Don't admit responsibility. Investigation may show that you are not responsible.
•Step 7 - Report to the proper authorities. If you are involved in a vehicle accident that occurred in California, you must report it to DMV if: There was property damage of more than $750 or anyone was injured (no matter how minor)Each driver must make a report to DMV within 10 days, whether you caused the accident or not and even if the accident occurred on private roperty.
•Step 8 - Report claims immediately. Contact your insurance company as soon as possible. Many have 24-hour claim-filing service by phone. Your insurance ID card should provide the number. Whoever takes your claim will walk you through the process.
Download & Print PDF Accident Record Keeper for Your Glove Box 5.5" x 8.5" Be safe and be smart.
Keep Your Pets Healthy Through the Holidays
By Dr. Pam Pussich, DVM & Dr. Greg Abreu, DVM, Meadow Vista Veterinary Clinic
With the holidays quickly approaching just a friendly reminder of the potential hazards to your cats and dogs. With all the cooking that needs to be done during the holidays, there are lots of tasty treats for your pets to get into, with results ranging from vomiting and diarrhea to seizures in severe cases. Chocolate toxicity is one of the more common poisonings that occurs during the holidays. A compound known as theobromine is present in all chocolate, but in especially high amounts in baking chocolate; ingestion of milk chocolate and semi-sweet chocolate are usually only associated with GI upset, but care should be exercised nonetheless. If an animal ingests enough chocolate, symptoms can range from muscle tremors, excitability, irritability, restlessness, and diarrhea in low doses to seizures and cardiac depression in more severe exposure. While the toxic dose is fairly high, it is best to keep all pets, especially cats and small dogs away any chocolate, and especially so when baking.
Another common danger is found at Thanksgiving; turkey dinner and all the fixings. While there are no toxins associated with the dinner, the high amount of fat in the gravy can easily set off a case of pancreatitis, which typically presents as profuse vomiting, stomach pain, and diarrhea. Stuffing, cheese sauces, fruit salads, etc., can all set off a dog’s stomach, so it is best to keep Fido away from the turkey dinner. Cats are susceptible to pancreatitis as well, with symptoms being more subtle including weight loss and inappetance; so make sure Fluffy doesn’t run off with a large piece of turkey skin. Turkey bones tend to splinter, and can get lodged in the throat, esophagus or GI tract. These should be kept away from all pets, and disposed of in a sealed container after dinner is over.
Colorful decorations are always fun during the holidays, but tinsel is often a favorite for cats to get into trouble with. Tinsel can turn into what is known as a linear foreign body if ingested by cats, where it can work its way through the GI tract and cause an obstruction. If you notice a large strand is missing, keep a close eye on the litter box for normal bowel movements, and if you notice a piece of tinsel sticking out of your kitty’s bottom, DON’T PULL IT, leave it alone and call for an appointment. Occasionally, tinsel can bind up the intestines to a point where surgical intervention is required. Ribbon, string, or any other string-like material has the potential for obstruction, so use caution when opening presents and dispose of the wrap material in a timely manner.
Holiday plants such as poinsettias, mistletoe, and holly can all cause issues with pets if ingested. There are conflicting reports of the toxicity of poinsettias, but at the minimum they can cause GI upset if ingested, and irritation to the gums and gingival tissue, so it is best to keep the animals away from them. Mistletoe exposure can be associated with vomiting, nausea, and diarrhea if ingested, and cardiac depression (slow heart rate and low blood pressure) in higher doses. While mistletoe leaves are not extremely toxic, the berries do contain high amounts of toxin, and as few as one or two berries can cause severe symptoms. Holly is also know to cause GI upset in animals, and should be kept away from all pets. For you horse owners out there, keep the mistletoe and holly away from the horses, as exposure in small amounts can cause colic symptoms.
We hope you and your pets have a very happy and healthy holiday season!
With the holidays quickly approaching just a friendly reminder of the potential hazards to your cats and dogs. With all the cooking that needs to be done during the holidays, there are lots of tasty treats for your pets to get into, with results ranging from vomiting and diarrhea to seizures in severe cases. Chocolate toxicity is one of the more common poisonings that occurs during the holidays. A compound known as theobromine is present in all chocolate, but in especially high amounts in baking chocolate; ingestion of milk chocolate and semi-sweet chocolate are usually only associated with GI upset, but care should be exercised nonetheless. If an animal ingests enough chocolate, symptoms can range from muscle tremors, excitability, irritability, restlessness, and diarrhea in low doses to seizures and cardiac depression in more severe exposure. While the toxic dose is fairly high, it is best to keep all pets, especially cats and small dogs away any chocolate, and especially so when baking.
Another common danger is found at Thanksgiving; turkey dinner and all the fixings. While there are no toxins associated with the dinner, the high amount of fat in the gravy can easily set off a case of pancreatitis, which typically presents as profuse vomiting, stomach pain, and diarrhea. Stuffing, cheese sauces, fruit salads, etc., can all set off a dog’s stomach, so it is best to keep Fido away from the turkey dinner. Cats are susceptible to pancreatitis as well, with symptoms being more subtle including weight loss and inappetance; so make sure Fluffy doesn’t run off with a large piece of turkey skin. Turkey bones tend to splinter, and can get lodged in the throat, esophagus or GI tract. These should be kept away from all pets, and disposed of in a sealed container after dinner is over.
Colorful decorations are always fun during the holidays, but tinsel is often a favorite for cats to get into trouble with. Tinsel can turn into what is known as a linear foreign body if ingested by cats, where it can work its way through the GI tract and cause an obstruction. If you notice a large strand is missing, keep a close eye on the litter box for normal bowel movements, and if you notice a piece of tinsel sticking out of your kitty’s bottom, DON’T PULL IT, leave it alone and call for an appointment. Occasionally, tinsel can bind up the intestines to a point where surgical intervention is required. Ribbon, string, or any other string-like material has the potential for obstruction, so use caution when opening presents and dispose of the wrap material in a timely manner.
Holiday plants such as poinsettias, mistletoe, and holly can all cause issues with pets if ingested. There are conflicting reports of the toxicity of poinsettias, but at the minimum they can cause GI upset if ingested, and irritation to the gums and gingival tissue, so it is best to keep the animals away from them. Mistletoe exposure can be associated with vomiting, nausea, and diarrhea if ingested, and cardiac depression (slow heart rate and low blood pressure) in higher doses. While mistletoe leaves are not extremely toxic, the berries do contain high amounts of toxin, and as few as one or two berries can cause severe symptoms. Holly is also know to cause GI upset in animals, and should be kept away from all pets. For you horse owners out there, keep the mistletoe and holly away from the horses, as exposure in small amounts can cause colic symptoms.
We hope you and your pets have a very happy and healthy holiday season!
How to remove hard water spots from windows and shower doors
By John Shanahan, Lighthouse Window Cleaning
Are you tired of looking through a cloud of water spots on your windows and shower doors? There are several methods and tools that will help prevent and eliminate unsightly water spots.
Four Simple prevention tips
1. Adjust sprinkler systems to avoid overspray on to your windows.
2. Never hose down your windows. Dust and dirt on your windows will turn in to invisible mud. When the water dries, it will form a hard water stain. The next time you hose down your windows there will be a small etched water spot that will collect additional mineral deposits. Water spots form like moguls on a ski hill.
3. Wash your windows before the next rain. Many people wait to wash their windows after the rain season. The best way to prevent hard water stains is to have your windows cleaned before the next rain. This gets the minerals off and allows the next rain to dry spot free through the winter.
4. Use a squeegee on shower doors after each use.
Removal of water stains will depend on how badly and how long mineral deposits have etched in to the glass. There are a few quick home remedies and there are some products that will take care of the tougher spots.
Home Remedies
1. Try a piece of “0000” steel wool. That is right! Steel wool on your glass. Make sure it is “0000” This referrers to the size of fiber in the wool. Use a tablespoon lemon Joy and two tablespoons of Lemon ammonia in a gallon of water. Easy to remove spots will come off using a circular motion.
2. Rub lemon Juice on the affected glass. Then, make a paste using baking soda and vinegar. Rub on the water spots in a circular motion. The chemical reaction combined with the abrasion of the soda will break down the hard water stain. For tougher spots, Use “0000” steel wool.
So you have tried the home remedies and spots still exist. There is still hope. I have found two products that work well.
Bio-clean is very effective. There is a mild abrasive in the paste. Rub it in with a circular motion. Let it dry and buff out with a dry cloth. This took care of the heaviest stains. It took a lot of scrubbing and was messy but the finished job good. After several applications, the water stains are gone.
A-Maz is the other water stain remover I have found to work well. The process is the same as Bio Clean. A-Maz is not as toxic as bio clean and works equally as effective.
Are you tired of looking through a cloud of water spots on your windows and shower doors? There are several methods and tools that will help prevent and eliminate unsightly water spots.
Four Simple prevention tips
1. Adjust sprinkler systems to avoid overspray on to your windows.
2. Never hose down your windows. Dust and dirt on your windows will turn in to invisible mud. When the water dries, it will form a hard water stain. The next time you hose down your windows there will be a small etched water spot that will collect additional mineral deposits. Water spots form like moguls on a ski hill.
3. Wash your windows before the next rain. Many people wait to wash their windows after the rain season. The best way to prevent hard water stains is to have your windows cleaned before the next rain. This gets the minerals off and allows the next rain to dry spot free through the winter.
4. Use a squeegee on shower doors after each use.
Removal of water stains will depend on how badly and how long mineral deposits have etched in to the glass. There are a few quick home remedies and there are some products that will take care of the tougher spots.
Home Remedies
1. Try a piece of “0000” steel wool. That is right! Steel wool on your glass. Make sure it is “0000” This referrers to the size of fiber in the wool. Use a tablespoon lemon Joy and two tablespoons of Lemon ammonia in a gallon of water. Easy to remove spots will come off using a circular motion.
2. Rub lemon Juice on the affected glass. Then, make a paste using baking soda and vinegar. Rub on the water spots in a circular motion. The chemical reaction combined with the abrasion of the soda will break down the hard water stain. For tougher spots, Use “0000” steel wool.
So you have tried the home remedies and spots still exist. There is still hope. I have found two products that work well.
Bio-clean is very effective. There is a mild abrasive in the paste. Rub it in with a circular motion. Let it dry and buff out with a dry cloth. This took care of the heaviest stains. It took a lot of scrubbing and was messy but the finished job good. After several applications, the water stains are gone.
A-Maz is the other water stain remover I have found to work well. The process is the same as Bio Clean. A-Maz is not as toxic as bio clean and works equally as effective.
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